The originals are exactly the same. Hiller recently built new cabinets for a job. The sink base is visible right here. Hiller used details from the original built-in.
Use this simple, strong method for constructing kitchen cabinets and other built-ins.
Editors note: Nancy Hiller passed away on August 29th, 2022 after a long battle with cancer. In honor of her memory, we will be sharing some of our favorite contributions from her over the years. This article originally appeared in the October 2022 issue Magazine.
It is tempting to say that there are many ways to make cabinets. Its an exaggeration, I know, but it gets at a basic truth about the world of cabinetry and built-ins: There is no single right way to build them.
My first job was in a rural English custom cabinetmaking shop. We built casework from melamine-coated particleboard. The sides, tops, and bottoms were joined using thin plywood splines. Finally, solid wood face frames were applied with a shaper-cut joint. More plywood splines were used to glue the face frames onto the cases. The drawer fronts and doors were inset. We hung them on solid-drawn brass butt hinges that were only mortised into the door. Finally, the faces of the drawers were simply screwed to the face frames.
At the next shop, also a rural English operation, we made casework out of solid pine floorboards. First, glue and clamp the tongue and groove material in long lengths. Then flatten them with a stroke sander to make the pieces to size. We housed the cabinet floors in dados. Although I don’t remember the type of joinery used, I do know that we didn’t use biscuits for tops. I only discovered a biscuit joiner when I returned to the United States. Face frames were attached using a simple glue and butt joint. All our doors were inset and hung on solid-drawn brass bolts. Our drawers ran on wooden runners and we didvetail our drawers by ourselves.
Much of my current carcase-building technique comes from what I learned at a contemporary furniture business in Vermont. We made casework out of veneered MDF and joined the pieces with Twinthread screws and biscuits. It was very simple and quick. Doors were full overlay, hung on European hinges; a novelty for me. Drawers were also full overlay and ran on Accuride bearing slides.
In the 23 years since I started my own business, I have selectively adopted new materials and methods. Built-in cabinetry is my favorite method. It combines simplicity and strength with materials and techniques that are more reminiscent of furniture than modern commercial cabinetmaking. This hybrid is a result of what I learned in the various shops I have worked. Based on my clientele, and the specialties I offer, I’ve chosen materials and methods that are best for my business.
Preliminaries
When designing built-in cabinets, you need to think about installation and take into account certain features of the cabinets future context. Im not referring to aesthetic features alone timber species, hardware, how the various cabinet components will interrelate (will the doors be inset or overlay? ), or style (slab doors or frame-and-panel?). Im also referring to how the cabinets will literally intersect with the walls, floors, and ceilings, which are rarely square, level, or plumb. These points of intersection can be handled in many different ways, each with its own period and cultural connotations.
Many built-ins made in the 20th century had flush kicks that extended to the floor from the bottom rails of the face frames.
This cabinet was built for the kitchen in a 1912 home. I had planned to scribe it (saw and plan) to the floor and to its left, which is why the cabinet’s left side has a face frame.
Unless you are a manufacturer who builds things in standard sizes in many parts, it is best to do the building work in stages. That way youll have a chance to adjust the different parts to fit what youve made so far, instead of finding that your face frame is 1/41 cm too narrow or you cut the recess for your kick too high. Some people begin with their face frames and then make their carcases. I do the opposite. Once the basic cases have been assembled, I move on to faces.
Upper Cabinets
Base Cabinets
Shelf-Spacing Considerations
It is not a good idea to place shelf support holes too close or too high to the cabinet top. In cases where drawers are above the shelf compartments, they should be placed too close to them. Consider what shelves are required to hold and how they should be spaced. The cabinet’s bottom should be able to hold flower vases up to 30 cm high. If so, it may not make sense to place shelf support holes below 33 cm from the cabinet floor.
To allow for finger support inserting or removing, the holes at the cabinet’s back should be approximately 1 in front of the back edge.
Holes near the front of the cabinet should be positioned close enough to the front edge of the shelves that they prevent the shelves from tipping when someone is putting an object away or taking it out. Be sure to take into consideration any lipping on the shelf’s front edge. It is a good idea for the front shelf support holes to be centered about 20 cm behind the back face of any shelf lipping that hangs beneath the underside.
Consider how much adjustability is really necessary for the shelves in a given cabinet. Cabinets that store smaller items, such as dishware and juice glasses, may need closer spacing. I prefer to place these at 1-10 cm center. Cabinets that store large items, such as tall dry goods jars, may need to be placed 5 cm in the center. The point is to allow as much versatility in positioning the shelves as may be needed while avoiding the visual busyness of too many holes.
Let’s Get Going
Rip first. My plywood is stored on sawhorses nearby the table saw. I can then pull one end of the sheet over the edge of my saw and adjust it against the fence, and rip.
So you have your scale elevations at hand and have made a cutting list based on them. Maple-faced veneercore plywood with prefinished one side is my preferred material for kitchen cabinetry. Prefinished sides are used for cabinet interiors. This saves me a lot of time and makes my work more affordable. That said, some jobs call for painted interiors or other finish treatments, so I always choose the sheet material to suit the job. Next, you will need to cut the basic pieces (sides, tops, and cabinets floors) to your desired dimensions. Some base cabinets are not designed to be 61 cm deep and 91 cm high, as I build each job to my own specifications. For example, I like a counter that is 97 cm high. It is important to adjust the carcase height to accommodate the thickness of the counter material. Even though most uppers for a kitchen job are 30 cm deep, some may be 13 cm deep and others may be 41 cm.
Be square and there will be no turning back. The 90-degree sliding table makes it simple to square the first part of each casework piece. You can then cut multiple parts to the same length by crosscutting with the rip fence.
All sides and floors should be trimmed to the required width. The edges and corners of sheet goods may not be square, and they often have minor damage. Its ideal to make the first rip slightly over-width, then turn it around and rip the other edge to the size you require. This will give you two straight edges that can be used for joinery.
After ripping, cut the parts to length. This can be done in many ways. Aside from cutting each part accurately to length, its important to cut the ends square. You can do this with a track saw if you have one. Alternatively you can use a straightedge and a pattern-cutting bit to rout one end square, then crosscut on a table saw, running that end along the fence. The same technique can be used with a circular arm saw to make the second cut. This trims the piece to the desired length. My current method is to crosscut one end of each piece using a slider on my table saw, then crosscut it to length using the rip fence. Be sure you add an identifying mark (for example: upper 1, left side) to each part as you cut it.
My method for joining cabinet floors to sides may not be refined, but its quick, simple and strong. I use a spacer made from scrap plywood to position the floor and support it. Twinthread screws run in through the cabinet sides will fasten the wholething together.
But First
The kick’s height and whether it will go flush or recessed will depend on the elevation. Calculate how high the space will be below the cabinet floor. Then, rip the scrap plywood into the required width and cut them to size. If you want your kick to be flush with the cabinet sides, the spacer should not be more than a hair shorter than the length of the cutout at the bottom of each cabinet. Next, drill the holes for the screws that will join the sides to the floor.
Get on up
Top joint. You can hold the strip in position and mark the center line of each biscuit on the cabinet side.
Base cabinets don’t require a solid plywood top. An extra strip of material a few inches in width at the front and back will provide enough material to tie the sides together or support a counter. These cabinets are lighter in weight and require less material. Sink bases, in particular, do not need a solid top; the vast majority of a sink bases top will be cut out to accommodate the sink. It is usually faster to make a solid plywood top for narrow cabinets (those less than 120 cm wide). Follow the same instructions as for a strip top.
Steady on. To make a square cut, secure the cabinet side with your vise.
The strips for a particular cabinet will be the same length as the floor for that cabinet, so cut them to length at the same time. The sides of the cabinet will be joined to these strips with Twinthread screws, but I also use biscuits, for increased strength as well as a positive means of locating the parts during assembly. Each strip should be marked with the cabinet number, front or back. This will allow you to quickly identify which side is left and which one is right. It is a good idea to have at least two biscuits in each strip to help prevent the strips from twisting during assembly.
Flat and firm. Place the top, whether it is solid or in strips, on your bench. Then, clamp the biscuit joiner and make the cut.
If you have ever found yourself on hands and knees, searching for that custard pan in the very back of a base cabinet, youll understand why most base cabinets today are made with drawers or pullout trays on full-extension mechanical slides instead of with shelves concealed by doors. I rarely put shelves in base cabinets, but I do use them in upper cabinets and in shallow base units such as bookshelves.
Predrill. Predrill. The spacer tells me where the holes should be: 320 cm on center above its top edge. Then I flip the side over and countersink. For a base cabinet measuring 61 cm deep, five to six screws will usually suffice.
Pin-style supports are best for cabinets with adjustable shelves. They are discreet, strong, and easy to use. You can now drill holes for shelf supports. This is because the cabinet sides can be clamped together and you can mark them simultaneously. Lay out the positions with a long square.
Assembly Time
It’s simple and sturdy. Attach the 1110 cm Twinthread screws to the bottom of each cabinet side. For a typical base cabinet, there are four to five screws per side. You can predrill and countersink or use an impact driver, as I did here.
Now that you have the basic carcase joints and the shelf support holes drilled, it is time to glue up your cabinets. Apply glue to the floor along the top edge of the spacers. Next, place the sides of the spacers on the floor with the front facing upward. (You can lean each side against a workbench, stationary machine or sturdy trash can to hold it temporarily.)
Maximize glue’s effectiveness. Make sure the bottom face of the cabinet floor is tight against the top edge of the spacers; the bead of glue along the spacers top edge will contribute to the cabinets strength, especially if you are using plywood thats pre- finished only on the interior face and so offers few opportunities for gluing.
Place the cabinet floor between the sides of the cabinets and loosely clamp. It may be easier to clamp the sides and floor to the bottom spacers, depending on how large the assembly is and whether you have help. The clamp will hold the pieces together while you insert tops (or top strips). There will be plenty of time to adjust the fit to get everything square.
Glue guide. Apply glue to the top of the spacer, where the biscuits will be placed. Dont waste your time or glue on the prefinished sur- faces; it wont bond to them.
Maximize glue’s effectiveness. The bottom edge of the cabinet floor should be flush with the spacers’ top edge. This will help to strengthen the cabinet, particularly if it is plywood that has been prefinished on only the interior side and therefore offers little opportunity for glueing. Apply glue to the biscuit slots or top strips, insert the biscuits, and then set the top in position. Apply a couple of clamps to hold the assembly together while you adjust the fit.
Square up and adjust clamps. I find light clamps useful in holding the floor against the spacers while getting things adjusted. Here I am tightening the clamps at the top, having flushed up the front and back edges. Next I will move to the cabinet floor, tapping the back down firmly onto the bottom spacer before I insert a clamp under the back edge to tighten everything up.
After squaring the cabinet, sight across the top edges to check for winding. Shim at the bottom as necessary to remove twist, then drill and screw. As per the instructions of the glue manufacturer, let the cabinet rest until the glue sets.
Vertical Dividers
A screw can help. It can be helpful to place one screw on each side of a large assembly if you are working alone. You can remove that screw if necessary, then redrill and replace it once the cabinet is squared. When the diagonals are equal, the carcase will be square.
Vertical dividers can be made from plywood that has been prefinished on both ends. I measure for dividers at this point and fasten them in place with screws.
Instead of measuring with a tape measure I cut two pieces of plywood scrap plywood (one for each the bottom and one for the top) according to the distance between my dividers and the closest cabinet side. Clamp the scrap in place and you have an instant way to predrill the screw holes, on center from the edge of the scrap. This makes it easy to locate the divider when you are ready to attach it.
Screw, drill and then turn the screwdriver. Use a bit that is just smaller than your screw shank to predrill the screws. Countersink to prevent breakout. Use a driver to insert screws.
Of course, you cannot insert that divider until youve cut it. Do not precut dividers. Cut them as you need. You might find your divider too small. You can measure the length of a divider by marking one end and placing it in its place.
Wide cabinets should have support feet below or near vertical dividers to prevent sag. These can be made from plywood strips that are the same height and length as the spacers on the cabinet sides. Screw a batten on each side of the foot through which you can fasten to the underside of the cabinet floor.
Face Frames
Take a direct measurement. Measure the length of the dividers by placing one end on the cabinet floor and marking the other. It is common for the tops and floors of large cabinets to bow or sag, so measure where you want the dividers. This will ensure that your divider increases the cabinet’s height near the center.
After using several kinds of joinery for kitchen-cabinet face frames, I now regard a pocket screw jig as my go-to. Pocket screws are quick, simple and strong. If you make a mistake, you can often remove the screws and replace a part.
Spacers for the win. Use a piece of scrap plywood to lay out holes for vertical dividers and locate them for fastening. Then rely on the scrap to locate the divider while you drill pilot holes with a countersink/drill bit and screw it in place.
Mill the stock for your face frames to thickness and width but do not cut anything to length until the cabinets are assembled. Direct measurement is the quickest, most accurate way to go: Start with stiles, setting a squared end on your shop floor for face frames with stiles that go to the floor; for cabinets with fully recessed kicks, start at the top and mark the location of the cabinet floors underside, then add (or however much you want the face frame to hang down, which will hide the joint between the cabinet and an applied kick). Hold the stiles in position, then mark the position by holding one end of each rail against the other. Repeat with the bottom rail.
For vertical dividers, wait until you have the main part of the face frame screwed together so that the spacing of all the parts is locked in. Then continue with direct measuring. Then, place one end squarely of the divider stile and mark the other. Hold the skeleton face frame against the cabinet and transfer the position of the divider onto the edge of the top and bottom rails. Insert the stile by drilling pocket screws at the ends.
Drawer Rails
Intermediate support. Attaching the foot to the cabinet underside can be done by attaching a batten to each end. To make it easier to screw them into the support foot, I place the battens in a staggered fashion.
For built-ins that were constructed between the late-19th and the mid-20th centuries, drawer rails can be installed to give your drawers a traditional look. Once the vertical divider is in place, you can continue the steps above to install the rails.
After you’ve assembled your face frame, sand the edges lightly. This is easier than gluing it against a pre-finished surface you don’t want to scratch. Apply glue to the carcase’s front edges. Spread the glue over the surface. Make sure that the top edge of the bottom rail is flush with the floor of the cabinet; do the same with any critical inside or outside edges. Then clamp.
Hanging Cleats
Again, measure straight. Vertical dividers can be made by waiting until the main frame of the face frame is attached. Clamp (without glue) to the carcase.
Next I usually tackle the hanging cleats, through which the cabinets will be screwed to the wall. Then I cut the backs.After these steps, the structure of the cabinet will be finished and I can turn to the fun parts doors and drawers, both of which deserve their own articles and have been covered amply elsewhere.
Place one end squarely of the divider stile and mark it. Then, cut.
Attachment cleats must be securely fastened to the carcase for safety. Otherwise, a cabinet can be detached from the cleat and fall down the wall. I create a strong cleat out of solid wood or thick veneer-core plywood, attach it to the carcase using Twinthread screws through the top and sides. The cleat is part of the cabinet structure and supports the cabinet’s weight. It also resists leverage (such as when a child leans against a cabinet door). that could pull the cabinet sides away from the cleat if gravity alone were holding the cabinet in place.
It should go without saying that a cabinet designed to store pantry goods, appliances or dishware must be attached to the wall through studs or heavy-duty blocking, not just fastened to a wall with molly bolts or drywall anchors.
Backs
The difference is in your pocket. A pocket screw jig makes strong face-frame joints quickly.
Although many people believe that backs should be optional for built ins, they are almost always worthwhile. A good back will protect a carcase from racking and give the interior a finished look.
A clamp can be purchased to secure the stiles and rails, but I just clamp them together on my bench.
Generally, for kitchen cabinets I simply apply a back cut from -thick veneer-core maple plywood, prefinished on one side. The interior will have the prefinished side.
Measure the width of the carcase and cut the back to that width, then measure the height from the underside of the cabinet floor to the top of the cabinet and cut the back to that dimension. After drilling pilot holes in countersunk pilot holes, attach the back of the cabinet using #6 3 cm screws or 1 Twinthread screw.
Shelves
Lets face it. Clamp position is important. Put the clamps where they will do the most good. The clamp should be placed inside for joints that can be seen from the interior of the cabinet. It is preferable to place the clamp on the outside of the cabinet when the face frame has an exterior face that will be finished (see right end). Cauls protect the face frame.
In most cases, kitchen cabinets will be far more functional if made with shelves that are adjustable, rather than fixed, allowing you to customize placement so as to utilize the available space efficiently. To increase rigidity and finish the edges, I make the shelves using the same thickness veneer-core plywood as my carcase.
For shelves, as with vertical dividers, its nice to use stock that is prefinished on both sides if you have it available. Resist the urge to make your shelves a perfect fit. They need to have a gap of about to on each end in order to be easily adjustable.
You can stay free until you have to cut the kick to fit your cabinets if they have a flush kick. If your kicks are recessed, mill them to thickness but leave them over-width and over-length until your cabinets are installed. Then cut them to fit.
Finished End panels and Trim
Just for looks. Cabinets made with mechanical drawer slides dont need rails to hold runners and kickers, but if youre after a period look, you may want to consider including them.
Cabinets with walls at the ends will not work well using the basic cabinetmaking process. But its also designed to allow for finished end panels. I find it more efficient in many cases to build and install the cabinets, whether uppers or bases, then carefully fit and apply finished ends. Regardless of whether the finished ends will be frame-and-panel construction, solid wood sides, or sheet goods custom-veneered to match the cabinets, I cut them roughly to size in the shop, then scribe them to fit on site. The end panels will cover the back, which would otherwise be exposed.
Crown moulding or other applied trim can be added after cabinets are installed. That way you can cut it to fit the room.
Product Recommendations
Here are some supplies and tools we find essential in our everyday work around the shop. Although we may be compensated for sales made through our links, these products have been carefully chosen for their utility and quality.
